Secondhand clothes in Uganda

In the bustling lanes of Kampala’s Owino Market, traders and buyers form a vibrant, chaotic ecosystem. Vendors like Hadija Nakimuli, who has sold secondhand clothes for three decades, serve customers ranging from low-income families to government officials. Yet this trade, vital to the livelihoods of tens of thousands, is under threat. A proposed ban on imported secondhand clothing, aimed at bolstering Uganda’s local textile industry, has ignited widespread resistance, highlighting the intertwined issues of economic survival, cultural identity, and regional politics.

This latest push to restrict secondhand clothing imports follows a regional history of similar efforts. In 2016, members of the East African Community (EAC) — Uganda, Kenya, Rwanda, and Tanzania — agreed to phase out secondhand imports to protect their nascent textile industries. While Rwanda enforced higher taxes, significantly reducing imports, others backtracked under economic and diplomatic pressures. Uganda’s President Yoweri Museveni revived the idea in 2023, promising to end reliance on “clothes of the dead” from Western nations, citing dignity and national pride.

However, resistance has grown. Traders argue that the ban jeopardises livelihoods in a country where over 30% of the population lives below the poverty line. Stakeholders, including women who constitute 70% of the 80,000 people working in Owino Market, contend the policy would disproportionately harm the most vulnerable, driving them into deeper poverty.

The ban, initially scheduled to begin in late 2023, faced delays after heated debates. Economists urged the government to conduct a Regulatory Impact Assessment (RIA) to evaluate the trade-offs. As Sarah Ssewanyana of the Economic Policy Research Centre (EPRC) noted: “Formulating policies overnight without engaging stakeholders risks economic destabilisation.” Critics argue that Uganda lacks the infrastructure and investment needed to replace secondhand imports with affordable local alternatives.  

The country imports vast quantities of secondhand clothing from the US, Europe, and Asia. For traders like Julie Nabwire, US shipments are preferred due to their higher quality and better resale potential. Meanwhile, rising import tariffs have squeezed profits. Following Uganda’s removal from the African Growth and Opportunity Act (AGOA) over its anti-LGBTQ policies, tariffs on used clothing rose further, creating additional challenges for the industry. As development economist Fred Muhumuza observed, AGOA policies have become more about political manoeuvring than meaningful economic progress, leaving traders and consumers caught in the crossfire.

Trade is vital for numerous reasons. It provides affordable options for millions of Ugandans, from schoolchildren to professionals, and prevents discarded clothing from becoming landfill waste in wealthier countries. According to the Mitumba Consortium Association of Kenya, over 4.9 million people in East Africa are employed in the secondhand clothing trade, which contributes $230 million annually to local economies.

“If I have to buy new clothes, it means spending my entire salary,” says 27-year-old Robert Twimukye, shopping at Owino Market.  

However, the government argues that this sector stifles the growth of domestic textile manufacturing. Ugandan Trade Minister David Bahati has described the ban as a step toward economic self-sufficiency, suggesting that local textile production could be incentivised through tax breaks and subsidies. Yet, without substantial investment in cotton farming and textile production, many remain sceptical about the plan’s feasibility.

Beyond economics, the debate extends to fashion and identity. Imported clothing, often associated with global trends and affordability, competes with traditional African designs. President Yoweri Museveni has called on Ugandans to embrace “African clothing” instead of buying clothes that white people “send to Africa” when they die. Museveni is tapping into an age-old tension about what it means to be authentic and the extent to which African people need to create aesthetic styles that reflect this, breaking away from the west. Drop Site journalist Murtaza Hussain reflected on an image of a group of men wearing counterfeit European branded clothes, addressing this issue on X, where he said: “Terrible to see what has happened to so many dignified cultures through poorly executed sartorial imitation.” He added: “I do think the Yemeni thobe with suit jacket can look good however. Same with shalwar kameez and suit jacket.” Hussain was quote tweeting another user who complained about how fast fashions change, making it difficult for people in poorer countries to keep up. Omar, the X user, posted: “they could just stick to much more beautiful timeless and traditional attire.”

While some see it as a patriotic call to embrace cultural heritage, others question its practicality in a globalised world. Critics of the ban argue that secondhand markets democratise access to high-quality fashion, enabling even low-income Ugandans to wear branded or designer items. For many, banning secondhand imports feels like a denial of their agency and a failure to address broader systemic issues, such as insufficient investment in local industries.

The government’s attempt to enforce the ban reflects broader tensions between protecting local industries and ensuring economic stability. It is a tension between authenticity and hybridity. Regional precedent highlights the challenges. Rwanda’s ban on secondhand clothing, though successful in reducing imports, resulted in job losses and strained trade relations with the US. Uganda risks facing similar consequences, including loss of market access and significant disruptions in its informal sector.

For now, resistance from traders and stakeholders has delayed the ban. The government plans to revisit the policy in January 2025, promising gradual implementation. As the debate continues, the need for comprehensive stakeholder engagement, investment in local production, and a phased transition remains critical. Uganda’s struggle over secondhand clothing encapsulates the complexities of development in a globalised world. Whether the government can balance economic, social, and cultural priorities will determine not only the fate of millions who depend on the trade but also the broader trajectory of Uganda's textile industry.